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Mt. Everest (8848m)

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Nepal

Dužina boravka

63D/62N

Mesto sastajanja

Aerodrom Nikola Tesla Beograd

Veličina grupe

6

Težinski nivo

Zahtevno / Potrebno je prethodno iskustvo u planinarenju na vrhove iznad 6000m. U proseku očekujte oko 6-12h aktivnosti svakog dana, osim u dane kada je planiran odmor ili aklimatizacija. Pored pešačke kondicije potrebno je i tehničko znanje u korišćenju cepina, dereza, hodanja u navezi i penjanja uz fiksno uže. Neophodno je i iskustvo noćenja u šatoru u zimskim uslovima, kao i samostalna priprema hrane tokom boravka u šatoru.

Šta možete da iskusite?

Najviši vrh na planeti Zemlji nalazi se na Himalajima, na granici između većinski hinduističkog Nepala i budističkog Tibeta koji je 1950. godine pripojen Narodnoj Republici Kini kao autonomna pokrajina.

Međutim, u periodu od 1745. do 1818. godine vulkan Čimborazo (6287m) se smatrao najvišim vrhom sveta. Nalazi se u Andima, na teritoriji Ekvadora. Između 1818. i 1848. godine za najvišu tačku Zemlje smatran je vrh Daulagiri u Nepalu, a od 1848. do 1852. godine se smatralo da je Kangčendženga u Sikimu najviši vrh sveta. Kako je pristup do vrhova Himalaja bio težak, topografi indijske geodetske službe ”Survey of India“ su ustanovili jedan vrlo visok vrh na Himalajima. On je označen kao Pik XV (Vrh XV).

Konačno, 1852. godine, proračuni merenja zemljišta su pokazali da je Pik XV viši od bilo kog do tada poznatog vrha. Izmerena visina iznosila je 8848 metara. Tako je otkriven najviši vrh sveta.

Za njegov naziv su predlagana imena Devadunga i Gaurišankar. Ser Džordž Everest, na čelu službe ”Survey of India“ je ovom vrhu dao današnje ime Mont Everest.

Kako god se ovaj vrh zvao, činjenica je da predstavlja najvišu tačku na svetu i da je istovremeno granica između Tibeta na severu i Nepala na jugu, odnosno, da je udaljen 150km severoistočno od Katmandua, glavnog grada Nepala, i 450km jugozapadno od prestonice Tibeta, Lase.

Everest je postao ispitni poligon za avanturiste zahvaljujući Maloriju i njegovim istomišljenicima. Britanci su svoju prvu ekipu alpinista poslali u izviđačku ekspediciju 1921. godine. Zbog udaljenosti planine i okrutnosti njenih vrhova, osam ekspedicija je više od trideset godina pokušavalo da se popne na ovaj vrh. Sve do podviga Ser Edmunda Hillarija i Tenzinga Norgaya. Hillary je kasnije izjavio da Everest ne poznaje pobednike, jer je moguće domoći se vrha samo voljom planine.

PLAN EKSPEDICIJE

Naša ekspedicija na Everest počinje od Nepala. Letimo za Katmandu, a zatim prelazimo na Tibet kopnenim putem, preko graničnog prelaza Timure. Potom stižemo u bazni logor na samom početku sezone, pa ćemo na raspolaganju imati dosta vremena za uspon. Postepeno ćemo povećavati visinu i time će se članovi tima lakše aklimatizovati. Nakon graničnog prelaza u Szabrubesi, odlazimo u Kyarung (2900m). Odatle se put konstantno penje dok se ne izađe na plato, a zatim puna dva dana odmaramo u Tingriju. U bazni logor stižemo nakon jednodnevne vožnje. Usput prelazimo preko Pang La, gde se naziru obrisi severnog grebena Everesta.

Po dolasku u bazni kamp, Šerpasi se odvajaju i počinju da prave istureni bazni kamp (ABC). Nakon što se mi dodatno aklimatizujemo, nastavljamo lagano dalje kako bismo obezbedili što postepeniji uspon do isturenog baznog kampa (6440m) smeštenog direktno ispod North Col-a. Do baznog kampa putujemo džipovima i pomoću jakova, ali zatim počinje pravi uspon.

Pored isturenog baznog kampa (ABC), imaćemo još tri:

  • Na visini od 7066 metara na North Col-u, nalazi se na snegu.
  • Na visini od 7800 metara, nalazi se na stenovitom području.
  • Na visini od 8300 metara, nalazi se na stenovitom zemljištu, ali na obodima postepeno ulazi u sneg, u zavisnosti od količine snežnih padavina u prethodnoj sezoni. Ovaj kamp omogućava pristup severoistočnom grebenu koji preko Tri Stepenika vodi do vrha.

Naš prvi cilj tokom susreta sa planinom će biti aklimatizacija bez prekomernog opterećivanja tela. Iz tog razloga ćemo nositi samo male rančeve sa ličnom opremom, dok će Šerpasi biti zaduženi za nošenje grupnih zaliha i tovara.

Nakon što nekoliko dana provedemo u ABC-u i omogućimo našim telima da se prilagode razređenoj atmosferi, biće nam lakše da se popnemo preko snežne kosine do North Col-a (7066m). Ovo mesto je pogodno za logorovanje jer pruža prelep pogled na severni greben i na gornji deo glečera Istočni Rongbuk. Planirano je da se jedna noć provede na Severnom sedlu, kako bismo se pripremili za ekstremne visine koje će kasnije uslediti.

Šerpasi će pripremiti visinske logore i opremiti ih šatorima, hranom i kiseonikom za uspon, dok će se glavni tim vratiti u bazni kamp kako bi predahnuo. Konačno, kada se svi logori postave i svi članovi ekspedicije aklimatizuju, dobro nahrane i okrepe, vraćamo se preko glečera Istočni Rongbuk do našeg isturenog baznog kampa. Kada utvrdimo da će vreme, u zadovoljavajućoj meri, biti stabilno, krenućemo ka vrhu postepeno, provodeći po jedan dan u logoru, sve dok ne sastavimo pet dana nakon napuštanja isturenog baznog kampa (ABC-a) na visini od 6440metara.

Neophodno iskustvo

Da biste se pridružili timu pohoda na Everest, potrebno Vam je dosta planinarskog iskustva. To podrazumeva prethodno iskustvo na visokim planinama visine minimum 7000 metara uključujući i višestruko alpsko planinarenje, a poželjno je i da ste već učestvovali u ekspediciji na planini višoj od 8000 metara. Iskustvo pokazuje da oni koji su ranije bili na nekom vrhu višem od 8000 metara imaju mnogo veću šansu da se popnu na Everest.

Izuzetak su oni penjači koji nisu imali šansu da osvoje vrh viši od 8000 metara, ali su se popeli na planine poput Huascaran-a ili Mont McKinley-a. Osvajanje Everesta bi mogli da razmotre i oni koji su maksimalno posvećeni, odlučni, samopouzdani i fizički spremni. I pored korišćenja fiksne užadi, članovi ekspedicije moraju biti u stanju da neosigurani prelaze mešovite terene, kao i da se kreću između kampova i žive u visinskim logorima bez pomoći i nadzora.

Itinerer

Otvori sve

Day 1

Outbound flight Departure

Day 2

Arrive to Kathmandu

We are met at the airport and taken to the hotel. This is an excellent hotel positioned well away from the bustle of the city center. Its friendly people do their best to make us feel at home. For those joining the expedition in Kathmandu, all team members should aim to meet at the hotel on this day.

Day 3

At leisure in Kathmandu

While the leader attends a formal briefing in the Ministry of Tourism, you will be able to explore this fascinating city. As those who have been there before will know, it is a wonderful mixture of crowded bazaars, temples and shrines, in a blend of ancient, colonial and modern architecture. Today, the expedition leader will also check everyone’s equipment, as Kathmandu is the last opportunity to buy anything missing.

Day 4

Drive to Tibetan border

A six-hour journey on a private bus takes us through Nepal’s central valleys before turning north to the Tibetan border.

Day 5

Enter Tibet

An expedition’s entry into Tibet can be a long process. Therefore, we must leave early in order to arrive at the border customs post before lunch when it closes for a day. As the customs officials work-time is in tune with central Beijing time, this can be a tall order! All loads need to be moved off our Nepalese transport, carried across the border and then re-loaded on to the Chinese transport, waiting on the other side. Fortunately, this is a well-practiced routine for our Sherpa’s, who will handle this transition seamlessly.

Day 6-7

Initial acclimatisation period

The road cuts through the Himalaya and we witness the incredible transition from lush green foothills to arid mountain desert. Just beyond the main town, we enter a picturesque valley, which is home to several small farming villages and hamlets. We have accommodation in a small hotel (actually lodge). From our  accommodation, we walk to the nearby hills, which provide enjoyable outings to help us acclimatize.

Day 8

Drive to Tingri

The journey now continues and we take another step to higher altitudes. We travel as far as Tingri where we stay in a local lodge. The views on the way are impressive, especially as we move onto the open expanse on the Tibetan plateau. From here views of Everest and Shishapangma stimulate the imagination for what lies ahead.

Day 9-10

Acclimatisation

Using our lodge as a base, we rest in Tingri for 2 days and 2 more nights, whilst exploring the local surroundings. We will use the vehicles for forays further a field in order to get as high as possible, whilst returning to the lodge each evening to allow the altitude to soak in.

Day 11

Drive to Everest Base Camp (5,200m)

Today we leave the main highway that travels towards Lassa, and head south towards Everest. We drive over the Pang La, which will hopefully give us our first good views of Everest, some 40 miles away. Then we descend to a village in the valley floor, and continue up the valley to base camp. The road becomes rougher and rougher, but the scenery becomes more spectacular as we pass each corner. Finally there is the awesome North Face of Everest, at the head of the valley before us. From base camp, it does seem very close, but it is still 12 miles away.

Days 12-16

Acclimatisation and local exploration

We spend 4 days at base camp to allow our bodies to adapt to the altitude. This gives us plenty of time to enjoy the views, and photograph Everest. For those who are feeling up to it, there are plenty of hillsides to scramble up, and we can walk down the valley to Rongbuk Monastery, 5 miles / 8 km away. Another worthwhile objective would be to reach Tillman’s Camp, an idyllic spot beside the majestic Central Rongbuk Glacier, which offers staggering views of the north side of Everest. It is important not to overdo it during this period – there will be plenty of opportunity for exertion later! We must exercise during resting, while drinking plenty of fluids and enjoying the base camp food.

Day 17

Trek to Intermediary Camp (5,800m)

At last, with yaks carrying our supplies, we set off on foot towards Everest. The trek starts easily enough, crossing the pebble floodplain of the Rongbuk River, then weaving along a good path between the glacier and the valley side. After about 2 hours we reach a good viewpoint, then turn steeply up to the left, leaving the main central Rongbuk valley. This takes us up into what seems to be a fairly small subsidiary valley, but it soon opens up to reveal the amazing pinnacles of the East Rongbuk Glacier. It was the discovery of this approach in 1922 that provided the key to climbing this side of Everest. We camp in a very pleasant spot, with plenty of space, no more than 2 hours after having turned into the East Rongbuk Valley. The camp is located on the right bank, overlooking the river below, and is short of the moraines and the toe of the glacier that lie ahead.

Day 18

Trek to Advance Base Camp (6,440m)

Today, we take a relatively short, a few hours walk to ABC.
The re-appearance of Everest is a pleasant distraction during the final climb and, as you round the corner towards advance base camp, you can see the whole of the North East Crest, from the Raphu La to the summit.
At a distance of 4 kilometers, 2 kilometers higher altitude, the shimmering triangle of snow, that highlights the summit over and will issue its siren’s call, until your footsteps cross it!

Days 19-56

Climb Mt. Everest

It is not possible to be prescriptive about how the mountain will be climbed from this point on, as it will be matter for the leader and the team to judge. For those that have been to extreme altitude before, we would aim to be as flexible as possible to allow for people’s preferred acclimatization routine. For some, this may mean climbing as high as camp 2 on the North Crest, as soon as possible, before diving back to base camp for a long rest. Others might want to remain longer in ABC, taking several trips to the North Col and sleeping there overnight but not going any higher.
Whatever routine is adopted for acclimatization, as soon as everyone is happy that they have achieved an optimum state of readiness, the team will return to base camp for a long period of resting and eating.
From Camp 1 on the North Col, the route turns to follow a long snow ramp, the north crest proper, that rests like a gigantic flying buttress supporting the upper reaches of the mountain. Although never steep, this section is prone to wind, sweeping icily across the mountain.
From here, the route moves on to broken rocky ground of shattered shale, as the north crest cast off its layers of snow. However, the route remains relatively easy angled, although the gradient increases gently, until the next camp is reached. This is located where the mass of the north crest rams home hard against the bulk of the mountain, on rocky shelves. The day is crowned by stupendous views over the glaciers below.
The top camp will give you an even greater sense of the world below your feet. The ascent remains on broken ledges, but these are easy with shale and scree interlacing between them until snow runnels give out onto the north face proper. Once clear of the rocks and on more open slopes, you turn directly upwards, to arrive at the final camp at about 8,300-metres.
Summit day begins before mid-night! Leaving the tents in the still of the night, your headlamps shine up to pierce the darkness and illuminate a faint gully that leads to the crest above. This line through the rocks is steeper than the traverse one the day before, but the fixed ropes help lift you continue towards the skyline. Some scrambling, accompanied by a disproportionate amount of panting, will land you on the crest at over 8,500m. The only thing now between you and the top, is about 400 meters of ascent, 3 rock steps and over a kilometer of crest – the ultimate tightrope! As dawn breaks, you will see the awesome Kwangtung Face falling off to your left – a mind-boggling drop in to Tibet. For the main part, you remain on the right flank and traverse easily in places, but the route is punctuated by the First, Second and Third Steps. The hardest of these is the Second, which has a ladder and fixed rope to allow an ascent, which would be virtually impossible otherwise. Additionally, you can expect an airy traverse route to conquer the summit. Finally, the mountain yields, and the final summit snowfield, that you had seen from miles below will come under your feet and herald your arrival to the Top of the World.

Day 57

Team members walk to base camp

Day 58

Packing personal equipment at base camp

Day 59

Depart base camp and drive to Tingri

Day 60

Drive Tingri  to Tibetan border

Day 61

Drive Tibetan border to Kathmandu

Once back to Kathmandu, Extreme summit team will host an evening barbecue to celebrate the expedition and as a farewell party to thank the Sherpa’s for their support and friendship.

Day 62

At leisure in Kathmandu

Day 63

Homebound flight departures

Šta je uključeno u turu?

    Experienced expedition leader
    Professional Mountain Guide
    High-altitude Sherpa – 1 for 1 member
    Oxygen cylinders “POISK” – 6 items / one climber (Start with oxygen from North Col)
    Expedition Doctor in BC
    Stationary radios in BC and walkie-talkies
    Top Out oxygen masks and reducer (only for use)
    Access to internet , TV set, DVD in BC 5200m
    Tibet visa
    Climbing Permit
    Airport transfers
    Transfer to Tibetan border and back
    Jeeps for the team members Tibetan border to BC Everest and back
    1 Yak per expedition member BC-ABC and 1 Yak per member ABC-BC
    Hotel in Katmandu 3*,  for 4 nights in double rooms (BB)
    All hotels and lodges in Tibet, full board
    Food in the BC, IBC, ABC – 3 times a day and tea time.
    Tents for the participants and maintenance staff in the BC, IBC, ABC
    Fully equipped camps in the BC, IBC and ABC
    Fully equipped high camps / tents, food, gas, oxygen cylinders …/
    Electricity generators for BC and solar panels for ABC
    First-aid set
    Nepalese cooks & Tibetan kitchen-boys at BC and ABC
    Gas-cylinders (250gr.) only for high camps
    Tents for the high-altitude camps
    Ropes
    Ice screws
    Walkie-Talkie
    1 Team T-shirts & 1 team soft shell jacket

Šta nije uključeno u turu?

    Flight to/from Katmandu
    Personal equipment for the ascent
    Lunch and dinner in Katmandu
    Tips for the maintenance staff & Climbing Sherpa’s
    Personal travel, medical and rescue insurance.
    Re-entry visa for Nepal
    Extra personal high-altitude Sherpa
    Extra nights in Hotel in Katmandu

    Our entire high-altitude Sherpa’s have Everest experience.
    They bring all shared equipment, high camps food and oxygen cylinders in high-altitude camps and accompany team all the way from ABC to the summit.

    Extra expenses

    Extra nights in hotel 3*  in Katmandu – $30 per person
    Personal extra jeep from BC to Nepali border – $600
    Personal extra jeep from Nepali border to Katmandu – $300
    Extra mask and regulator (1 sets) – $350
    Extra oxygen 4L bottles “POISK” (1 items) – $400
    Delivery extra oxygen 4L bottles to high camps by Sherpa -$100 per 1 items
    Extra yak for personal equipment (40 kg) from BC to ABC or from ABC to BC – $100

    You will need to cover flights; insurance and extra spend. You’ll need to book your flights to and from Kathmandu, travel insurance and cover other personal expenses.

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28/03/2024 2 на залихама - 262 39900 EURRezerviši

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